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Werkstatt:München

從2010年開始撰寫關於慕尼黑導覽(Munich Guide)系列文章;那時候德文對話能力還不達如流程度,卻總是大膽且任性地對於感興趣、有意思的人物或店家發出採訪邀約。回想起舊時光衝勁,也振奮了內在沈睡多時的靈魂;那時候以嘎吱窩盜汗的緊張模樣約訪,傻傻地背著相機在慕尼黑大街小巷裡走動。那幾年時間的訓練累積了一定程度的採訪與對話能力,才有機會在後來的工作上獲得更多不同的機會。

過往的慕尼黑導覽(Munich Guide)以圖文方式介紹,對於想細細品味、閱讀文字的讀者來說,透過圖像與文字架構起對於受訪者或是受訪店家的想像或許是件美事;對於想要出發到德國或是慕尼黑旅行的出遊者在事前準備工作上也有所幫助。如果可以再配上影音,把當下的氛圍記錄起來,那麼即使短時間之內無法成行,也可以藉由影片畫面感受現場。

新的企劃,我們首訪座落在地鐵U2線,Fraunhoferstraße地鐵站旁的銀飾設計工作室Werkstatt:München以及設計師Klaus Lohmeyer。請先觀賞影片感受工作室充滿藝術創作的氣息,然後再進入採訪內文與影像的閱讀,你們便會瞭解這個散發著魅力的品牌。

The series of Munich Guide articles started in 2010; the time I could not speak German fluently. However, I was (am still) fearless and willful requesting interview with people or stores that were (are) interesting. The memory reminds me of the old period, felt nervous about asking interviews, discovered Munich with heavy gears; further, it wakes up my adventurous inner soul. The experiences have developed my ability and skills of interviewing. Besides, it helps me to have more opportunities for my work now.

Before, I edited Munich Guide articles with pictures and text as contents. It is great for readers who are interested to read and imagine the personalities of respondents and space; even for travelers who are ready to discover Munich. However, I thought it could have fun to offer videos to introduce about this city. Although you are not able to visit Munich soon, through the videos, you can take a closer view of it.

For the new concept of Munich guide, we visited the silversmith and goldsmith design atelier, Werkstatt:München where is near to the subway line U2, the station of Fraunhoferstraße. We talked to the owner, Mr. Klaus Lohmeyer and visited how the studio works. Please watch the video firstly to feel the atmosphere and then back to the article to read the story.

Werkstatt:München工作室的經營者,Klaus Lohmeyer先生同時兼任設計總監;大門一開寬大而溫暖的雙手誠摯地迎接我們的來訪。頭戴毛線帽,身著一件短袖T-shirt披掛著工作室設計生產的Cashmere大圍巾,一身灰階色系勁裝與設計事業產生緊密連結。他是慕尼黑當地人,深愛巴伐利亞的生活步調與品質,因此二十年前選擇在家鄉地創業,將深植的根往更寬廣的領域延伸發展。即使在採訪之前已事先提供訪綱參考,面對每個問題,Klaus仍舊先深思才慎重地回覆;堅定卻富有溫暖感情的氛圍一如他的設計作品,在粗獷的外表下有著細膩的思維脈絡與創作理念。

Mr. Klaus Lohmeyer, the owner and creative designer of Werkstatt:München. He welcomed us sincerely with his warm hands. Matching to his career and taste, he wore a cap and scarf that are designed and made by his studio; the total look was in different layers of gray. Born in Munich, and he decided to stay in his hometown when he founded his atelier twenty years ago due to the lifestyle and quality here. Moreover, he extends and develops his vision into a wider range. Although I offered my interview questions to him before we met, facing to my questions, he chewed the issues in his mind firstly and then answered me thoughtfully. His personality is as firm yet full of emotion as his creation and collection; a fine and smooth thread of thought exists behind his masculine appearance.

享受創作時沉浸在帶有某種程度噪音裡的寂靜,金牛座的Klaus有他感性的一面。從構思發想,藉由手的製作將想法落實直到設計品的呈現,創作的轉化過程中所投入的專注力可以提升內心裡的平靜。不只是設計好看的飾品配件,更是著重金屬本身的特性、溫度以及重量在皮膚上的觸感,設計的形狀尺寸符合佩戴只是基本要素,更重要的是不能影響生活中雙手與身體間的動作,才是在創作上堅持的理念之一。

品牌單品中的原件都是出自工作室的設計,在金飾、銀飾上當然是以原料開始打模創作;卻了確保設計的獨創性,就連皮件包款上的金屬釦件也完全由工作室出品。如果有任何零件由其他商家購入,那麼創作的獨立性便減少許多,容易受制於其他因素;這才是奢侈品牌存在的意義,而並非單只著重在價格上。

The most part Klaus enjoys from the creation is the inner silence and peaceful of the whole process; as a Taurus, Klaus has his emotional and sensitive roles. The process of bringing an idea to a real design piece through handcrafted creation means everything to him. It is not only about to create nice-looking accessories in different sizes but also to consider how every part matches the hands or body that is into our lifestyle completely.

The studio makes every single component. Not only the silver and gold accessories are manufactured from the raw materials; to keep the collection as an independent line, they produce their metal fastening pieces. If they purchase some pieces from other suppliers, they are not able to design a unique collection at all. This is how a luxury brand exists that stands behind a strong concept and do not only focus on the price.

正因為準確地熟悉並掌控了原料的特性,使得原料得以發揮對大的特性展現其價值。Werkstatt:München販售絕無僅有的少見設計,同時在審慎的前提下接受個別顧客的特殊訂單。每件單品的生成背後都有不只是設計理念與故事,更多時候配合原料的特性、裁切與剪裁才有現今架上陳列的商品,牽一髮而動全身的細微關鍵讓Klaus不得不堅持並確保所有單一商品都是以最好的品質呈現。

在品質控管上的堅持來自對工作室裡員工的百分百信任;為了達到絕對的製作品質,Klaus不藏私地傾囊相授製作技巧,讓員工發揮所長,才能在各個環節上完美地串聯起來建立品牌的精準度。在慕尼黑這座較為經典的城市中,Werkstatt:München所出品的款式相對充滿了外張的生命力,卻在細微處添加了優雅的特質,也正是這個品牌最具有魅力的特質。

Werkstatt:München knows well about every material they use. Therefore, they present the products in a proper and high-quality way. They design unique pieces; also, they accept special customer orders thoughtfully. There is always a concept and story behind a piece; still, it is all basic on the state of the material, the features and the weight, every little point effects the layout and cut. Keep a high quality is the only reason why they only accept limited customer orders.

For better quality, Klaus loves to share his knowledge with the people who work in the studio; to develop all technique for better creations. When every single detail connects properly, then the impression of the label is found.